I’m not totally sure what to call it, so let’s just go with The Third Layer. I’ve always loved a longer layer over a pant. There’s something about it that just makes you look like you know what you’re doing. And it comes in many flavors: the full sarong drama (hi, Dries), the straightforward long tunic over trousers (see the Loro Piana ref below), or the slightly confusing but very cool street style versions that popped up all over NYFW.
I used a piece of fabric to create a version of this concept about 10 months ago, you can see the visual here:
I’ve been attracted this type of styling since at least 2016 (and even wrote about it last year here and on substack here)
The thing I love most is that your bottom half does all the heavy lifting. You can wear the most boring top in your closet and still end up with the best outfit in the room because all the magic is happening waist down. It’s comfortable and the chances are high you can whip up something with what’s already in your closet.
Where I’d wear it: someone’s dinner party. Your lower half still gets to shine while you’re standing around mingling, instead of disappearing under a restaurant table.
I've had fun playing with this idea in numerous ways:
Wearing an actual skirt over my pants (bonus: this is a great way to wear your skirts when its freezing)
Scarf tied around the waist, either sarong or cummerbund style, depending on the mood
Long tunic or shirt layered over pants and under a tee or sweater, probably the most wearable version
Tying a long cardigan at the waist (instead of a pullover sweater), tie it unbuttoned so the extra fabric creates a “skirt” effect around your waist.
TIP: this trick usually works best with pants that puddle on the floor. Since the skirt layer can visually shorten your legs, that extra pant length helps balance things out and elongate the line.
What really sold me were the inspirations. The range is everything, this idea works just as well for a morning matcha run as it does for a party at Raf’s, where the whole point is to be seen. Proof that it can go casual like Shannon Bond, full-out dressy like Kate Foley, or land perfectly for the in-between (hi Irene Kim (김애린) ).
Act I: Scarves, Sarongs, and/or Cummerbunds
To start, I experimented with scarves. Partly because I have so many (thanks to my mom, who carried Sarti in her boutique), and also because it felt like the easiest entry point.
If you’re looking to recreate the Dries vibe, here are some great pieces to get you there:
The cummerbund tie has potential but I need to play with it more. It feels like a trick that would benefit from a jacket layered on top.
Act II: Skirts Over Pants
This runway image I saved (and now can’t source, eeek) stuck with me. No accessories, just textures keeping it interesting.
I wore my version of it to dinner last week and felt great. It reminded me of Leandra Medine Cohen’s latest post: “simple, but with impact.”
